PlainGeets

To get an idea of a classic meal for the French working class in the 19th century (or to simply have a classic, but inexpensive French meal), head to a Bouillon. I discovered bouillons a few years ago, and haven’t been able to stop going back.

So what are bouillons?

Traditional French eateries that originated in the late 19th century, bouillons are known for serving affordable, hearty meals in a casual and convivial atmosphere. These establishments are typically characterized by their diverse menu options, reasonable prices, and quick service.

The history of bouillons can be traced back to the economic and social changes occurring in France during the 19th century. In response to the growing urban population and the rise of the working class, Adolphe-Baptiste Duval, a bucher opened the first bouillon restaurant in Paris in 1854. Duval’s establishment, called “Bouillon Duval,” was designed to provide affordable meals to the working class. The menu featured simple, yet nourishing dishes such as soups, stews, boiled meats, and vegetables. The success of Bouillon Duval sparked a wave of similar restaurants across Paris, and soon bouillons became popular gathering places. It is said that Paris had more than 200 bouillons in 1900.

During their peak in the early 20th century, bouillons were widely frequented and became an integral part of Parisian culinary culture. However, their popularity declined over the years as the dining scene evolved, and many bouillons closed down. Luckily for us, there has been a resurgence of interest in bouillon restaurants since 2017, with a few new establishments reviving the traditional concept. However only a few authentic bouillons remain, such as Bouillon Chartier, Bouillon Pigalle, Bouillon Julien, and Bouillon Racine, and they take great pride in being able to maintain their pocket-friendly prices (as you can see in this billboard, spotted at Gare de l’Est.)

Most of the revived bouillons have retained the Art Nouveau decor which reigned in Europe during late 19th century, so the restaurants are a real treat to all the senses. You are greeted by walls decorated with lilies, vines, flower stems in a room bustling with the energy of the restaurant staff taking orders and serving piping hot meals to customers, lost in animated conversation over a pichet of wine. The tantalising aroma of French cuisine completes the ambiance, helping to build the anticipation.

They always have a plat du jour,and suggestion de menu to make it easy to order, but unlike other places there isn’t much of a difference between a plat du jour and going à la carte. Once you’ve made your choice, your waiter for the evening will scrawl the order in a corner of the paper place mat, and before you know it, your drinks and first course will be on the table! It goes without saying that the meal is a delight. Simple, wholesome meals, cooked to perfection. Succulent, flavoursome, soul-satisfying. A celebration of French culinary heritage and a testament to the artistry of simple meals.

Some of my most memorable meals in France, like the one in these photos, were at a bouillon, and it gives me great pleasure to introduce others to one. Not only is the food excellent, they also provide the perfect ambiance for a soirée entre proches.

The modern day French working class may be seen grabbing a sandwich, or a bowl-based meal, which is just as hurried and standardised as any other place in the world. But fortunately for us, the bouillons have survived, and it’s an experience to be savored, a sensory journey that leaves you content and grateful for the simple pleasures of good food.